Are You Missing The Signs Of A Fried Skin Barrier?
While we all love fried food on occasion, when it comes to your face – no one wants crispy skin. An aesthetician will tell you if your skin barrier is compromised, but are you missing the warning signs at home? Here's an easy guide to know if you are too dried out and what to do about it!
The area around your mouth and/or eyes is a different shade than the rest of your face.
This is a big sign people miss. The "ring of fire" around the mouth or eyes is an easy sign that your skin is too compromised either from active ingredients, environment, or genetics. People think their skin is uneven or they don't understand why their eyes burn, but the truth is that thinner, more delicate skin is in those areas than the rest of your face.
What to do if this is you?
It's tough because acne-fighting ingredients can cause this chronically, to a degree. You shouldn't pause ingredients with benzoyl peroxide or retinoids because you need them to get and stay clear. However, there is no reason not to balance them with hydrating and nourishing ingredients, like hyaluronic acid, aloe, and green tea. Layer these serums and hydrators twice daily on top of your acne-fighting or exfoliating products, whether you feel dry or not. Once you see the discoloration, it's too late, so it's crucial to hydrate your barrier before then!
If you don't have acne, you can pause any exfoliating products and layer the same products. How do you know if something is exfoliating? Physically exfoliating products have scrubbing exfoliating, but also check your cleansers, toners, and serums for chemically exfoliating ingredients like mandelic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and retinyl propionate.
Your face feels really tight when you get out of the shower.
You might think water would be hydrating for the skin, but hot showers cause water loss in our skin. If you get out of the shower and do not put post-shower products on, your skin will start to get a sandpaper-like feel. Also, if you use bar soap or body wash on your face instead of a proper cleanser, you will feel really tight, too.
What to do if this is you?
If you insist on scalding hot showers, cleanse before the shower, apply a barrier mask like Lavender Mask or moisture mask while in the shower, and keep your face out of the water spray. Otherwise, turn the temperature down and use a real face wash if you cleanse your face in the shower. Once you get out of the shower, don't rub your face with the towel – pat it so that it's not dripping wet and then spray on a hydrating toner (like Iso Cell) and then apply lavender mask, moisture mask, or Dr. Esthe sheet mask while you do your post-shower activities. After those have been soaked in, apply more nourishment like Rejuvenating Ampoule and moisturizer (and, of course, SPF if it's morning or daytime). Repeat this guide every time you shower until your skin feels repaired.
You have patches of flakey, red, dermatitis skin or eczema.
Minnesota winter and eczema go together like peanut butter and jelly. If you can't hit the tropics for some sweet humidity when those subzero temperatures come, then you must do your best to give your barrier some extra love. When our skin barrier is compromised, it's easier for environmental triggers to affect the skin. Our skin sees these triggers (which can be ingredients in our skincare products, dust, other allergens, or just severe cold temps) and reacts to them, causing irritated skin. Of course, some are genetically prone to eczema, and it can be internally triggered by stress, diet, and medications as well. Still, it doesn't hurt to help your barrier because the stronger the barrier, the more you can fight off these reactions.
What to do if this is you?
Simplifying is key because some people's skin is extra particular. We're sorry if that's you, but you will be much happier to find the few products that don't cause any reaction to your skin.
A simple routine looks like a gentle yet effective cleanser that can remove dirt, oil, and makeup, a nourishing serum or two that is targeted and has a strait-forward ingredient deck (stay away from Sephora and ask your aesthetician), and finally, a moisturizer that isn't too heavy which will trap dehydrated and irritated skin. Also, petroleum jelly like Aquaphor or Vaseline will be a reliable tool as well. If you have acne and eczema, that's tough – however, you can do your best to treat the different areas of your face with different products.
You see wrinkles in your skin that come and go.
Fine lines and wrinkles are inevitable and hard to erase fully without 'tox, but a lot of what appears to be wrinkles or crepey skin is just dehydrated, dry skin. Think about a dehydrated raisin versus a fully hydrated grape. Which one do you want to be? Before assessing your wrinkle situation, add both hydration and oil/lipids to your skincare routine.
What to do if this is you?
Don't necessarily stop your active ingredients because wrinkles need to be exfoliated – we want to keep turning over that skin! Instead, go for the top products to plump your skin. These are easily Rejuv Rx, MGF, Caviar serum, HydraIntensive, and finally rich fatty oils like Derma Relief Serum (not acne-safe), Matahari Oil (acne-safe), Promoter Cell Repair (acne-safe) and 24 Hr Age Defying Cream (not acne-safe). Each of those products offers multiple skin benefits because they contain ingredients like peptides, PLLA, or antioxidants that "pause" aging and ingredients that create more hydration and moisture in the skin. Because of the ingredients, these products carry higher prices – but if fighting wrinkles is important to you, they should be your first choice.
You can't acclimate to your retinoid.
Some people have genetically dry skin, which means they don't make very much natural oil on their own, which helps to combat the flaking and dryness that acclimating to a vitamin A-based product takes. On the other hand, some people just aren't giving their skin proper hydration to help their skin acclimate. This means all the above mentioned signs areprobably happening every time you use your retinoid. If you can't use your retinoid (and enjoy it) consistently at least three times per week, you need a new approach.
What to do if this is you?
The easiest option is to opt for Derm-A-Renew, the most gentle retinoid that still delivers results. If you are genetically prone to reacting to a retinoid, chances are this is the only one that will ever work for you, and that is okay – because it's incredible!
If you firmly believe that your skin cannot handle a stronger retinoid, you need to use hydrating products along with it and simply push through the temporary flaking. You will see your skin get stronger on the other side. Sometimes, our barrier needs to get a little shocked to build itself back up again. One of the most helpful tools is a hydrating enzyme mask to give immediate relief to dry, flakey skin. You can use that to get those annoying retinoid flakes off in the morning. Another tip: while using petroleum jelly on your off-vitamin A days or throughout the day to fight chapped skin, avoid using it on top of your retinoid because that is counterproductive.