What the F is Vitamin A?

“What retinol do you use?” is the “What’s your sign?” of the skincare world. But, what is so special about this stuff? And, honestly, what the F is it? 

Let’s start with some background on vitamin A for skincare. The umbrella term for vitamin A formulations is Retinoid – so any vitamin A serum, gel or cream can be called a “retinoid”. In 1969, Dr. James Fulton co-developed and patented Retin-A (also known today as Tretinoin) on a quest to clear acne – and thus, the first topical retinoid was born. In his research, he found that formulating vitamin A in skincare had a great effect not only on clearing the skin, but also rejuvenating it. Retin-A, which is pure Retinoic Acid, penetrates very deeply into the pores – but it usually comes with some unwanted side effects due its strength and ability to so quickly penetrate the skin.

Wanting to develop a formulation that would combine the results of Retin-A without the redness and irritation, Dr. Fulton continued his research on vitamin A for skincare. He worked to create a version of vitamin A that penetrates deeply, but without those unwanted side effects – called Retinyl Propionate. And this ingredient is one of the foundations on which Vivant Skincare was formed.  

At Skin MPLS, Retinyl Propionate is our retinol of choice. We use it to treat acne, pigmentation, aging, dull skin as well as other skin conditions and lesions. Molecularly, it’s the closest thing to Retin-A (or Retinoic Acid) – it’s only three carbons away. And those three added carbons are actually an asset, they help the skin to absorb it slightly slowly – making it the perfect choice for all skin types. It’s proven to penetrate the skin and pores to the perfect depth – but, since it’s not pure Retinoic Acid, you don’t need a prescription. 

So, what about all of the other ‘retinol’ products out there? A rose by any other name, does not smell as sweet in this case. Most retinol variations you find at the beauty store don’t have the ability to penetrate the skin fully and therefore won’t turn over cells effectively. Remember how we said Retinyl Propionate is just three carbons away from Retin-A? Well, the most popular vitamin A formula found in the beauty aisle form is Retinyl Palmitate – which is 16 carbons away. With this difference, the finished product barely resembles Retinoic Acid! 

Still a little confused? We get it – it’s a lot of science to take in. Carbons schmarbons?! So just remember this, no matter what the formula – any vitamin A is better than no vitamin A. So liberally use up whatever version you’re using and then make the permanent switch to ours. Thanks to the rockstar of skincare Dr. Fulton, Retinyl Propionate is the only form of Vitamin A you need to know. 

So next time someone asks, “What retinol do you use?” Your answer is, “The one that works the best.” 

At Skin MPLS we offer Retinyl Propionate in five different strengths: Derm-A-Renew, Derm-A-Gel, Exfol-A, Exfol-A Forte and Clear Body Therapy.