Melanin: The Science of Skin Tone

Melanin is a key factor in the makeup of our complexions and most simply stated, it gives skin its coloring. Melanin is produced by melanocyte cells in the deepest layer of the skin. Everyone is born with a certain number of melanocyte cells, but deeper skin tones have more melanocytes and therefore more melanin production. More melanin gives more protection against aging and UV damage but deeper skin tones still require SPF to provide the most protection.

Melanin is a great defender of our skin’s health and without it, we would be left completely unprotected from the sun’s rays. But, understand that it’s released as a defense mechanism, and you want to avoid triggering those melanocytes to create more melanin. This excess melanin production is usually a result of UV exposure, acne and picking, and hormones. Even though the production of melanin is there to protect you, over time, it can form unwanted pigmentation spots and patches which result in uneven skin tone from putting those melanocytes into overdrive. 

Many skincare products are targeted to lighter skin tones which can leave naturally melanin-rich skin tones at a disadvantage to find products best suited for them. Darker skin tones are more sensitive to producing melanin and should go lightly on ingredients that may cause inflammation because inflammation can lead to pigmentation and discoloration. Stronger chemicals like glycolic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and retinoids can be prescribed or recommended for darker skin tones, but may not always be the best treatment.

Here are the best melanin-loving ingredients: 

Mandelic Acid: Our favorite alphahydroxy acid and a natural, non-irritating melanin inhibitor derived from bitter almonds. Dr. Fulton and Vivant Skincare were the first to put it into practice while specially treating deeper skin tones. It also sloughs off dead skin, fights acne, and gives the skin a beautiful, even glow.

SPF: Everyone needs SPF and even if you don’t see the tan lines forming, those melanocytes are still busy at work. If you are having a hard time finding one you are willing to wear everyday, please seek guidance from your skin care provider.

Vitamins C & E: Along with mandelic acid and SPF, antioxidants help stop the damage from environmental stressors before it starts and should be used every morning under your SPF.

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