Hot Topic: Toxic Skincare Ingredients

We’ve all seen the skincare clickbait: “12 ingredients you should never put on your face!” So, how are you supposed to feel good about the cosmetics in your medicine cabinet when you aren’t sure if they are even safe to use?

There are 69 million chemical combinations used in the world today — no wonder we are all a little confused. A common concern we hear is clients wanting a more organic or natural approach to skin care. However, mass marketing and few regulations by the FDA have made it hard for people to know what buzzwords like “natural” and “non-toxic” really mean. In this post, we are going to break down three types of ingredients that have started to take a lot of heat in recent years. Oftentimes the truth is in the middle. So, we will simply present the facts to help you decide what ingredients you should avoid and which ones you may want to consider. Like with most things in beauty, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach.

Let’s start with the king of controversy — Parabens:

Parabens are preservatives, and preservatives are everywhere. They keep food and cosmetics from growing mold and bacteria. Parabens are even naturally found in blueberries for this very same reason – to keep the blueberry from molding. However, the reason that parabens have been getting so much attention is because they have the ability to slightly mimic estrogen, which has linked parabens to the potential growth of tumors. It’s important to note though, the levels of estrogen-like properties in parabens are several thousand times weaker than the estrogen that naturally occurs in the body. And, from what science has concluded, we have no evidence of a direct link between parabens and cancer. You should also know that some plants such as soy, rose, and strawberries mimic estrogen as well, so parabens aren’t alone in this ability.

While parabens in small quantities may not be much of a concern, a New York State Health Department study showed parabens were found in 90% of all foods in the surrounding local markets. Yep, everything from beer and wine to dairy and fruit (as we mentioned above with blueberries). The biggest offender is — pancake syrup!

Out of the family of parabens, methylparaben has the weakest estrogenic effect(1), and this is one of the most common parabens found in skincare products. Most products contain about .01 to .05 percent of these parabens. And of those amounts, only about .03 to .15 percent of the parabens may penetrate the skin (1). So, while skincare has taken the brunt of the paraben beating, it is obvious that the parabens in food are much more likely to hit your bloodstream. 

If you are looking to cut back but don’t want to sacrifice clear skin or effective skincare, try eating organic whole foods and ditching some of your daily makeup or trading out your body soaps and lotions. A final important note, in modern society it may be hard to cut parabens out altogether. The more you research, the more you can develop your own ideas and feel secure about being a consumer.

Next, let's talk about Fragrances:

Fragrance’s main goal in skincare is to make products more desirable. But to some of us, they pose a threat — allergies and irritation. Seven to 18 percent of people have some level of intolerance to fragrance(1). Even if a fragrance is labeled as “naturally derived”, that doesn’t mean it won’t irritate the skin. In fact, we often see that botanicals can be the biggest irritant to sensitive skin.

We all love good smells and it’s one of the reasons some people are attracted to products. Basically, everything has an odor, so no product can ever truly be odor free. So then, what does “fragrance free” really mean when we see it labeled on products? 

Essentially, if a product relies on just one essential oil for smell it can be labeled “fragrance free,” but if it contains a chain of essential oils, it cannot boast to be “fragrance free” (and that may be a complex chain on hundreds of ingredients that don’t even need to be labeled!). However that fragrance can be labeled as “naturally derived.” “Hypoallergenic” products are simply products labeled as less likely to cause a reaction for those with sensitive skin. Allergies are not based on the product, but an individual’s response to the product. We often help our clients to interpret their skin’s sensitivity and figure out what is right for your skin.

Our last topic is Alcohols:

We are seeing more and more labels stating that products are “alcohol-free.” First, let’s clarify that “alcohol-free” refers to fermented alcohol or ethyl alcohol which is similar to alcohol you would drink or use for antiseptic purposes. There are other alcohols like cetyl alcohol that are emulsifying agents, and do not de-fat the skin. Therefore, these are not included in “alcohol-free” claims. 

Yes, alcohol has a temporary drying effect to skin and it also has a de-greasing effect. So why do we use alcohol in toners, serums and treatments? As we know from our first aid kits, alcohol removes dirt and oil from the skin. It is also a solvent that can change the water solubility of the skin for a brief period of time. This means, anything used following a product containing alcohol will be able to penetrate the skin more effectively. And you’ll want to understand that the alcohol used in most skincare has such a high flash point that it’s gone and evaporated off the skin before you (or your skin) even knows it.

For people with normal, oily, resilient, or acne-prone skin, a toner with alcohol can help not only to prevent acne/clogged pores by clearing skin oil and debris but also should be used in preparation before your favorite serum to make that serum even more effective. So if at first, the thought of drying out the skin sounds harsh, with some additional explanation, you realize that there are several benefits to alcohol when used in skincare.

Parting Skincare Wisdom:

There is no easy way to approach reading a skin care label, and even the most “natural” product can be hiding some potentially aggravating side effects. We are certainly not cosmetic scientists, but we take product integrity very seriously at Skin MPLS. We choose safe and effective high quality products that will meet the needs of every one of our clients.  We help our clients understand what type of skin they actually have. There are no two faces alike, but it is important for everyone to keep an open mind and always take a second look at their skincare. If you have questions about any of your products, we strongly encourage you to set up a virtual consultation or shoot us an email to discuss! We’re here to help - even if we can’t be together in person.

Sources: (1) Michalun, M. Varinia; DiNardo, Joseph C. Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, Milady. Kindle Edition.