From Pond’s To Peptides: Skincare Through The Ages

What we’ve learned from analyzing over a century of skincare and our guide for a simple, results-driven regimen, worthy of passing down

Before we had retinol, peptides, snail mucin, growth factors, exosomes, and every other ingredient marketers have worked hard to make you believe “you absolutely need,” there was Pond’s Cold Cream. Here’s the science of how it all started. 

The Original Skincare Staple

If you are lucky, your grandmother used Pond’s and passed down the gene of taking care of your skin. While we might roll our eyes at the thought of one product in a jar reversing aging, it turns out it was an exciting invention. In 1846, American pharmacist Theron Pond extracted a soothing tea extract from witch hazel that had properties to speed up skin healing and launched the Pond’s brand. This all contributed to the beginning of modern skincare.

When Beauty Went Mainstream

More beauty brands, such as L’Oréal, Max Factor, and Elizabeth Arden, came on the scene in the early 1900s. But at that time, using cosmetics was a little taboo because you were expected to look naturally beautiful. Medical and cosmetic products that promoted healthy skin and reduced aging began to heat up in the 1920s and 30s – partly due to women entering the workforce and needing more self-care. Unfortunately, many advertised miracle creams contained ingredients like arsenic, lead, and mercury – leaving skincare innovation a lot of room for improvement. 

The Big Three: SPF, Vitamin A, and Vitamin C

The midcentury took us forward, though. By the 1960s, sunscreen was finally a thing! Of course, it wasn’t yet a daily obsession like it is now. With SPF also came early efforts toward products that worked better across a wider range of skin tones. Face washing also became a household staple during this time, and more cleansers came to market besides bar soap. 

The 1960s-1980s are when it all got real! Drugs got a lot better – we are talking about skincare drugs! Instead of just creams, scientists began formulating compounds like the topical gold-standard Retin-A prescription. Of course, what started as a highly irritating peeling agent that helped people with acne morphed into a huge market for retinoids. Today the retinoid market has grown into a billion-dollar global market! This means there should be a topical vitamin A option for almost everyone. 

After SPF and topical vitamin A, came another major discovery. Dr. Sheldon Pinnell watched his wife bake an apple pie. He noticed she soaked the apples in lemon water to keep them from browning. That observation eventually contributed to his groundbreaking work stabilizing topical vitamin C for skin. 

Since the first aesthetics school was founded in 1965, during the 70s, 80s, and 90s, it became increasingly more common to get facial treatments and seek out professional skin guidance. From the late 80s to early 90s, skincare was relatively simple. Use your SPF, retinoid, and your vitamin C. Despite the rather large number of ingredients we have today, SPF, a retinoid, and vitamin C remain a winning recipe for a skin-minimalism routine. 

Injectables Change the Game

By the 2000s, the genie was out of the bottle. Thanks not only to Christina Aguilera but also to the open market for skincare cosmetics. In 2002, Botox was FDA-approved to treat wrinkles. This placed greater pressure on topical cosmetics to compete with the fast-and-furious world of Botox and injectables.  

The Age of Peptides

Enter peptides. Copper peptides had been used as topical skin-healing agents since the 1970s, but by the 2000s, more and more peptides were discovered to have the plumping effect we all wanted. Peptides are small chains of amino acids that act as cellular messengers, supporting skin firmness and a plumper appearance.

As some things never change, we think that can be said of the days of Pond’s Cold Cream. New ingredients, options, and skincare science continue to emerge, but it all leads to the same destination. Just think, centuries of women paved the way to where we are now, thanks to their demand to look and feel fabulous in their own skin.

What We’d Pass Down Today

Here’s our simple regimen for healthy aging, worthy of being passed down to the next generation.

Cleanse: Green Tea Cleanser

Treat: Derm A  Renew Serum (Vitamin A and Peptides)

Protect: Pure C&E Serum (Vitamin C) and Sun Protection Ultra Repair SPF50

Moisturize: Bio Cell Rejuvenating Cream